Specializing in the food of Southern Mexico, this humble but amazing Mexican restaurant also operates Tenoch Movíl, a brick-red food cart towed behind a pickup truck. Veracruz natives Alvaro and Andres Sandoval operate two restaurants: one in Medford Square, and a popular North End outpost opened in early 2014. The Medford shop is near my house, so I've been lucky enough to eat there at least once a week for two years now. The place is always busy, with tides of local hipsters and Mexican families ebbing and flowing over the cycles of the week.

Many Bostonians familiar with burritos and tacos will find some delicious surprises at Tenoch. Garnachas and Huarache are now on offer—comforting street food from Southern Mexico prepared with clean, intense flavors in well-tuned harmony. Alvaro will delight in introducing you to the street food from the cities of his youth, and treats any curious and adventurous guest like Anthony Bourdain on food safari.

But the heart and soul of Tenoch, and the only dishes offered at Tenoch Movíl, are the tortas—Mexican sandwiches. Mainly using the same fillings available on tacos (carnitas, chorizo, chicken, and fish), these sandwiches are stacked on a soft Talera bread, often with melted Oaxaca cheese, and finished with a combination of avocado, chipotle mayo, and pickled onions.

Try these tortas and you might fall for them like I did, and it might change how you think about Mexican food.

  • Hybernaut
  • March 30, 2014 06:36
  • updated April 02, 2014 04:14